By Courtney Baldwin
So, you’ve been wearing rentals and finally want to commit to your first pair of climbing shoes. Or maybe you want to graduate from a beginner model or used pair to something that really suits you. Either way, congrats!
Shopping for climbing shoes can be overwhelming and confusing. A big misconception is that some shoes are just the “best” and that you can shop based on reviews or recommendations alone. While many shoe models are indisputably high-quality, that does not necessarily mean they will work for YOU. Shoe shopping is highly personalized based on your own unique foot shape, and also your goals on the wall!
We’ll help guide you through the top considerations to make sure you find your best option.
Fit
How should climbing shoes fit anyway? The answer for most is that they should be snug, though not painful. That means your toes can and should touch the front of the shoe, but not be completely mashed on top of each other. The heel portion should be snug, without extraneous air or any sliding around. Try to eliminate air or dead space in the shoe, although if you’re a beginner climber, a little space can be fine for comfort purposes as long as your feet and toes aren’t sliding around at all.
If your toes or arches immediately hurt upon putting on the shoe, it’s probably not the right shape for your foot, or is too tight for you. Pick the size that feels right—for most people, this is a little smaller than their street shoe size.
Because fit is SO important, it’s helpful to visit an in-person location that has lots of shoe models to try on, whether or not you ultimately buy from there. REI or other outdoor gear stores and your local climbing gym (depending on selection) can be good options. If you find a model you’re seriously considering, it’s a good idea to keep the shoes on for around 5 minutes just to make sure your feet don’t suddenly start hurting around the 90-second mark.
If you’re shopping online, opt for a store that offers returns, and potentially order a few sizes or models with the intention of sending back the ones that don’t fit.
Usage
Which shoes to even try on anyway? While the best answer is “what feels good on your foot,” some styles of climbing shoes shine best in specific situations.
Flatter, stiffer shoes can be very comfortable, and offer good foot support for small edges on slab and for long outdoor climbs. Aggressively downturned shoes (i.e., the shape of the shoe curls the foot and the toe downwards instead of allowing it to be flat) have a very precise toe point that is great for bouldering, more advanced footwork, and for overhung climbing. Aggressive shoes tend to be more advanced, and also less comfortable. Softer and bendier shoes tend to be best reserved for indoor gym climbing, while stiffer shoes with harder rubber (whether flat or downturned) can stand up to the wear of outdoor climbing better.
Flat shoes are a great all-around option and tend to work well for beginner climbers. If you’re not sure what fit to go with, you can always split the difference and go for a generally stiff, slightly downturned shoe—this will perform well in all varieties of indoor climbing and can be taken outdoors as well.
Remember, squeezing your foot into the most aggressive comp shoe you can find won’t magically make you send two grades harder. The pros can absolutely send V10 in rental shoes.
Low Volume vs. High Volume
You may have heard these terms coming more into vogue to replace “men’s” and “women’s” climbing shoes, and for good reason. In addition to being more gender-inclusive, they better describe the actual difference at play.
If you have a narrow foot with a lower arch, you have a low volume foot. Conversely, high volume feet are wider and/or have a higher arch. There is no reason that a person of any gender should feel compelled to adopt one shoe version over another, beyond foot shape (this author uses She/Her pronouns and wears high-volume shoes). You also might fit best in the high-volume or men’s model of one shoe, but in the low-volume or women’s model of another.
Does Laces vs. Velcro Matter?
Short answer: not really. It’s up to personal preference on ease of closure. Velcro shoes are quick to get on and off, while laces can offer more personalized adjustability if you’re struggling with fit.
Price Point
Of course, all these considerations are constrained by budget. While beginner models tend to be a bit cheaper, basically all climbing shoes are expensive. Keeping an eye out for sales and asking if your gym has a member discount can be good options. If you don’t object to used shoes, checking REI or other stores for "resupply” or used items can be a good option to save money as well—just be aware that pre-owned items are generally final sale.
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